Handeland Salute to PanAm

My first air travel was in May 1964 from Chicago to Pittsburgh on a TWA jet. I should have been studying for finals in engineering major at Northwestern. But I couldn't concentrate, so decided to join my family, who were driving to my mother's farm home outside of Pittsburgh to see her father. By then he was very ill, and it was last time any of us would see him. I loved the farm and still fondly recall many Thanksgiving and Christmas trips as well as long summer vacations on the farm with my grandparents. I dreamed of being a farmer, even though my Chicago suburb home was a world away from farms, other than being near cornfields to west.

1889-1983 Miriam Moore Painter 1530 James Finley - 1919 Betty Handeland Genealogy 1888-1963 John Thurman Painter, Miriam

Mother's farm has been in our family since it was given to ancestor named Andrew Finley, who served as officer with George Washington throughout the Revolutionary War. Andrew's father John was first European to descend the Ohio River to Blue Grass country of Kentucky before the French and Indian War, about the same time as Washington was surveying the area of our farm, back when west of Alleghenies was still contested between Pennsylvania and Virginia. Washington was paid for his surveying in land, some of which he caused to be granted to Andrew Finley and other officers.

1754 Fort Necessity S of Pittsburgh PA 1950's George Washington 1955 Braddock Campaign to Fort Duquesne

Coincidentally, Andrew's father John was part of unit in Braddock campaign a year after Fort Necessity debacle. He regaled other enlisted men around nightly campfires with tales of the wonders of the blue grass meadows of Kentucky, including a teenage Daniel Boone, who was so engrossed with the adventure that he spent years looking for path through mountains, which John Finley had only heard of from Indians, called the Warrior's trace.

 

In late 1768 the older brother of Andrew Finley, who was a frontier tinker traveling from clearing to clearing with all his goods in pack on back, came to Boone's frontier farm near Yadkin in southwest corner of Virginia. Being familiar with Boone's tale of search for Warrior's trace from his father, he convinced Boone that he could find it, probably with same gift of gab or braggadocio his father had around Braddock campfires years earlier. The two spent the winter in Yadkin planning an expedition, for which Boone raised needed funding and supplies, and in Spring of 1769, Finley made good on his ability to both find and lead Boone through what has since become know as Cumberland Gap.

1769 Daniel Boone Cumberland Gap 1769 Boone Cumberland 2009 PJ top of Cumberland Gap

All this has little to do with my first jet flight, although I have often thought how that hour Chicago Pittsburgh flight compared to Finley and Washington taking months to traverse and explore a miniscule amount of distance I sped over that evening. But what I really think of every time I takeoff is shift from taxi to lift off is jet plane technology, power and marvel that makes it possible to cross the country in a few hours and be on another continent in a few more. Maybe it's an engineer's thing, even though I did much less with engineering since Northwestern than most of my colleagues.

 

1950's PA Farmhouse 1850's Wallace's Finley Fancy Farmhouse 1960's PA Farmhouse Rear Porch

As an engineer I got to take lots of jet flight job interview trips around country,. It wasn't due to great grades, but I was a Sputnik kid when country believed lots more engineers would help catch up with Russians in space. In technical marketing job for petrochemicals in NY, I had couple years of regular flights and drives through NY, New England and Eastern Canada territory, before getting promoted to Cincinnati. It was long before I was ready to leave NY, but back in those days I was still single and had little reason not to take promotion..

1965 June JFK TWA to London Charter 1960's PanAm Stewardess Reunion NY 1973 Pan Am World Port JFK NY

It was from New York I first had chance to fly PanAm, not on business as they had no routes in my territory. Only contact I had with PanAm then was meeting young beauties who flew for PanAm at parties. I was quite entranced by where they had been and life they led, as well as being impressed that all were young, single, lovely college graduates and fluent in other languages. Closest I had come in flight to PanAm's world was summer charter flight from NY to London after Northwestern. Although I loved those TWA flights, and subsequently met TWA stewardesses in NY. TWA never had PanAm's allure, except for TWA JFK terminal, which in 1965 and ever after was almost like a dream to pass through on way to far away places.

 

However, in lull between Thanksgiving and Christmas holidays as days grew shorter, darker and colder in New York, I booked overnight fare with couple Rainsford buddies on what I learned later had been PanAm's all time champ in route seat utilization and profitability: New York to San Juan. As much as I try look back on glamour of that night, it was mostly three of us and nearly 200 steamy Puerto Ricans. Most passengers slept, but I recall spending most of time talking with cute stewardess new to PanAm.

1966 Old San Juan to Carib Hilton Beach 1966 PanAm Jackie, Rod, Lequilla Beach Lutece Beach House San Juan

I recall learning her crew had a couple night layover, so called and drove her later in day of morning arrival east along shore to Lequilla Beach, which was both enchantingly beautiful and virtually deserted. Later we climbed through rain forest above beach. When I called next day she was sick trying to get well enough for next am departure back to NY. I visited her that evening and she did get back to NY, where we dated and went on couple holiday ski trips with NY friends. But NY and PanAm weren't for Jackie, and she returned to American in Dallas.

1967 April Paris Place Concorde Meeting Point 1967 April Concorde Jackie Brown 1967 Mar Arlberg, Davos Skiing

We next met at Place Concorde and spent April in Paris week together. Seemed like it should have been another PanAm romance, but PanAm had nothing to do with it. She was there on American miles and I on ski charter to Arlberg and Davos that returned to NYfrom Paris. Jackie visited me in Cincinnati and we saw each other in San Francisco a couple times, but my first Romance of Flight had ended, perhaps because I was way to dreamily idealistic and unrealistic. I returned to Saint Croix on PanAm later that year, but it was example of don't return to same place in search of lost magic. So may first fling with PanAm was over until PJ in 1979.

1967 Nov Buck Island St. Croix 1967 St. Croix Cane Bay Plantation 1982, 66. 67 Caribbean San Juan or St. John Beach

During my decade in San Francisco from 1968 until meeting PJ, I still flew a lot, but nearly all within continental US. Only destinations PanAm had were triangle flights I used on Western to Mexico City via NY and Hawaii via Anchorage. I traveled abroad, but mostly by land through Africa and Asia in 1970-71, on return to India via Greece charter in 1976 and through S. America in 1977-8, but never on PanAm.

 

1979 Hawaii Kuilima Kuilima next to Sunset Beach Body surfing 1979 Tokyo mountain trail 1979 SF Return Sound of Music

So it was just a few months after we were together that we not only fell in love with each other, but also added PanAm. It was just like my first PanAm flight, only overnight to Hawaii rather than San Juan. After wonderful days around Sunset Beach at Hyatt Kuilima, on Oahu north shore, I continued west around the world to install lease line telex network based in Hong Kong, while PJ returned to California. PanAm return for me from London was with San Francisco friend, who talked of her recent marriage. As PJ and I watched Sound of Music that evening, it was wedding scene where I asked whether we should do that.

 

Even though our honeymoon six months later was a few days in Yosemite, PJ had been intrigued about my love for India. So our real PanAm love affair began the day we started on first leg of our round the world PanAm stand-by in fall after our May wedding. We missed SF-NY flight early morning flight due to no stand by room and went up to Clipper Club and purchased a Lifetime Membership, without asking whether it was ours or PanAm's lifetime. For PJ that was answer to greatest problem she had flying with me. Since she never had to worry about 'Get me to the church on time' since we were married in our Lombard home, she now could rest easy that as long as Clipper Club was there, she didn't need to worry about 'Get me to the flight onetime.'

 

I had been flying regularly since 1960's and was used to showing up a few minutes before PSA to LA or NY shuttles from LaGuardia, but by 1980's airline lead times were growing. So with that as intro to how we came to know and love PanAm, most of rest of our decade of Romance of Flight on PanAm follows in photo memories of all those faraway places with strange sounding names that PanAm carried us to while they were still fulfilling Trippe's dream of flying more people to more places at price they could afford. Not so sure he ever realized the consequence of that was also related to sad path to PanAm's December 1991 end

 

1980 Autumn PanAm 1 1980, 65+ Rock Cntr 1980 Ldn Forest Gate Julian 1980 Stonehenge Accessible 1980 UK village, Tintern

It seemed we got a good part of value of our Clipper Club purchase on first day, as we missed next two flights of Pan Am to NY, but had backup of overnight to Miami and then morning up to NY. Before checking luggage, we both changed and took run to 101 through Redwoods in median strip where International terminal is today. As we flew overnight on what had been National route, I recalled Thanksgiving overnight to Florida on National in 1977. I was surprised to be one of only half dozen passengers on jumbo jet. Didn't think then how disastrous National would be for PanAm couple years later and also to shortening our Romance of Flight with PanAm to little more than a decade. Our first leg of PanAm Round the World was more credibly filled, but seeds of PanAm end had already been sown with way too high acquisition cost, which never returned much domestic feeds to PanAm international routes. As for us, we never missed another of many flights due to standby as PanAm winged us east around the world.

1980 PJ Bombay Buddies 1980 Bombay Street 1980 PJ Boat to Goa PJ Calingute Beach 1980 Boat to Goa Gang 1980 Calingute Beach House

After week in NY Park Ave. coop of PJ's friends, it was PanAm overnight to London and tea with PJ friends at Claridge's, before ending day with Julian, my old Africa travel mate from 1970-71 along with wife Rosemary, daughter Helen and pit bull Fran in London's East End. Several days touring included Stonehenge, Bath, Tintern, Blenheim and Oxford. Late Sunday underground opening meant missing Delhi flight, but Clipper Club staff helped arrange PanAm flight to Berlin via Hamburg and on to Bombay via Frankfurt next day. PJ had never been to Berlin and found night walk along Wall dark, dreary and eerie. I hadn't been back since 1965, when I found E Berlin even drearier, before heading north to Scandinavia. PanAm to Frankfurt seemed like SF-LA in US. Frankfurt-Bombay was much longer than normal with Iran-Iraq war having broken out few days before, forcing PanAm to fly way south over Saudi to avoid airspace above spat. As all international flights came and went in middle of night in India, I wasn't surprised, but PJ thought grim, dimly lit, cavernous arrival hall could at least have had a couple more 60 watt bulbs hanging from ceiling.

 

After daybreak taxi to friends' Malabar Hill home, we spent nice few days with lots of drivers, servants and Breach Candy Club, an old colonial expat hangout, then mainly filled with Russians. PJ's meeting of real India was when friends dropped us off for 24 hour boat to Goa. As you see from photo, PJ may have thought I somewhat overbilled this cruise along the Arabian Sea with wafting palms blowing in tropical breezes along Western Ghats. But real mistake was suggesting tour of boat and leaving our rear upper deck spacious quarters. On deck below, she saw evening's meal being prepared, on which she passed. As we disembarked next morning and I suggested breakfast, she recalled last evening's food preparation and talked about not eating anything. Guess I forgot to mention that good English breakfast was available most anywhere and along with fresh fruit, were only reliable Indian culinary delight. Anyway, as we see from beach beauty photo, all was better with our Goa days after breakfast and bus to beach house inn I remember from 1976. PJ was even game for coming to bowels of boat on way back to Bombay to talk with couple hundred school kids, who wanted to know what we thought of India.

1980 Udaipur India Laxmi Palace 1980 Memsab PJ Amber Elephant 1980 Taj Mahal Agra India 1980 Fataphur Sikri

On talking about spending next couple weeks on India trains, we both realized that with our luggage having gone from London to Delhi on day we didn't, meant less India luggage hassle. PJ asked something about first class, and I explained that India trains used to have four classes and I always traveled 4th to get a better feel for the country, but now they only had two classes. We did have couple hours at station before first 30 hour ride to Udaipur, so I traded in tickets I had bought before Goa trip for 1st class, even though it boosted each from $15 to $40 for two week pass. Udaipur's Laxmi Palace (above left) was probably most luxurious India night, as PJ probably still isn't willing to acknowledge the splendor of stars above upper deck bed on night to and from Goa. Laxmi also had advantage of overlooking an exquisitely beautiful lake, rather than being in one. Last time a friend talked of their stay at Lake Palace, they spoke of low water that prevented any boat access, so a gerry rigged faux water pathway allowed for some kind of lake floor procession to hotel. Sounded more akin to Moses parting Red Sea, which I last saw in Ten Commandments on either 1970 or 1976 days in Calcutta. Maybe Heston's feat was where Udaipur also got idea for low water Lake Palace access.

 

In Amber, outside of Jaipur, PJ took commanding heights on elephant. But it was Agra that left her breathless, as we took donkey cart along deserted night roads to Taj, passed through surrounding mogul arches alone, and gasped at splendor of snow white Taj bathed in light of nothing other than faraway full moon above. Can't say next day was quite as placidly peaceful, but back then visitors were still small and security moot, lots different from 2006 when PJ was ready to back to India, as I have always teasingly suspected to see whether Tristan and Kevin were as overwhelmed as she was 25 years before. Mughal capital of Fataphur Sikri built a few miles from Agra is much more mysteriously alluring. It lasted only a few years until water ran out and stands to this day perfectly preserved centuries later.

1980 Delhi Carpet PJ 1980 Tokyo Autumn 1980 Hong Kong, Reagan In, BI OK 1980 Kyoto PJ Ryokan 1980 Indian RR First Class

Somehow turquoise carpet PJ was admiring was being purchased for a friend, but she has never forgotten it. We did buy lots others on this and my 1979 trip and even became friends in SF with dealers Surrender and Rita, before they moved on to Houston. Our train pass expired on overnight haul from Delhi to Chandigarh at foot of mountains where Simla perched. I had stayed at Grand Hotel year before, so rushed to see if suites were still available and paid for several nights. It is cold in Simla at night and I'm not sure there was heat, but PJ seemed more disturbed by monkeys on balcony feeling they also were entitled to come inside. Not sure whether I noticed heat or monkeys year before, but real problem may have been seeing Viceroy Lodge next morning, which PJ seemed to be more attracted to. In any event, we checked out of Grand and headed further up Himalayas to Wildflower Hall, where Bollywood was shooting a film and heaters warmed rooms after spectacular Himalayan sunset. And with comforts of Chail chateau respite on way down to plains and bus to Delhi, we reclaimed luggage and checked it on to Bangkok, this time with us. Last India picture I have of PJ is asleep on floor. I thought: gone native, but with no Clipper Clubs since India is mostly refueling stop between Europe and Asia with few getting on or off, curling up for nap on floor isn't much different from way millions of Indians still spend every night. Thought PJ had become so acclimated that next trip she would be ready for negotiating with three wheeler taxi transport, rather than amusedly watch me deal with it.

 

Great to be in PanAm Clipper again and looked forward to another to Hong Kong after our one day in Bangkok. We walked around a bit and maybe saw Royal Palace, but mostly recall Bangkok from a Friend of Jim Woodcock's, with whom we stayed. After nearly a month of searching for edibles in India, we probably recall Thai dinner better than it was. Makes me think even more sadly about loss of our neighborhood Thai restaurant of 17 years, only restaurant we went regularly enough that everyone knew us. Hong Kong still had all its glitz and nighttime grandeur, but is most recalled on this PanAm in and out for news of Reagan's sweep into Presidency, and email, when I stopped in TOL office, where I worked to install lease line network year before on PanAm round the world west rather than east. It was go ahead for BI job and seemed to ensure that we would get to know PanAm much better until in 1986, we sold BI to Economists and my PanAm ties thinned.

That was all still years ahead as we flew east on PanAm to Tokyo. Arriving late, we found ryokan where I stayed prior year gone, and no one seemed to know of any others still in Tokyo. We looked at bunch of very lovely hotels in Shinjuku, which had rates that seemed reasonable, but desk clerks shook a finger at us implying, not for you. It was only later, through TOL Japanese colleague, I learned those attractive rates were hourly, not daily. Next day was Sunday where all girls from toddlers to grandmas dress up in finest old Japanese dress for shrine visits. Combined with splash of fall foliage, it was a beautifully exquisite afternoon. Fall foliage was vivid on bullet train and throughout Kyoto-Nara, where we could find ryokans, great contrast to the many cute students with dull pink and blue hats. After a few days, it was on way home time with PanAm via Hawaii, along with Kobe airport wedding parties on same path to Waikiki. We didn't see them on Hawaii's sands since after couple months away, we took next PanAm San Francisco flight home.

1977, 83 Mexico City, Puerto Vallarta 1983 Paris French roundtable 1983 Geneva, Zermatt 1983 KL, Smokehouse 1948 Sapporo HAPO, Tokyo

Following years with Business International were filled with PanAm, partly because they provided regular way back to NY BI head office, but mostly because PanAm continued to carry me or us abroad: In 1983 it was January CEO Roundtable in Puerto Vallarta with days in Mexico City after one of draconian devaluations that made Mexico City restaurants bonanza for foreigners, as I saw with BI colleague while PJ battled Montezuma's revenge in hotel. Month later it was Paris for government roundtable and Geneva for BI and couple Zermatt ski days at end. Until PJ, all earlier travels lacked only one thing: someone to share it with. And here I was in most romantic ski area in world with PJ back home working on B of A electronic banking or Ballet Auxiliary. Same was true next month across Pacific to Malaysia Roundtable and Smokehouse Hill Station with Hong Kong adieu to Repulse Bay hotel on way home. We did go together to Puerto Rico for BI CEO gathering January 1982 and few days wandering through old haunts I recalled from first PanAm trip in 1966. But a few weeks later I was alone again on PanAm to Japan and days in Sapporo, Tokyo and Hong Kong, returning with probably one of last jeweled bauble hordes for PJ, before she began buying her own.

1979, 80, 84 Honolulu 1984 Milford Sound NZ 1984 March Rod NZ 1984 Sydney Opera 1984 Alan Cameron Lodge

Think it was during early 1984 PanAm trip to Australia-New Zealand that we learned of Pacific route sale to United and first sensed more PanAm trouble ahead. We thought Australia would be first stop, but on landing in Sydney and learning we needed visa, we stayed on PanAm flight which continued to Auckland. Got needed Oz visa and spent couple weeks driving both islands seeing all those sheep. Even saw Elton John show in Wellington stadium, after he returned for Oz wedding, his own, believe it or not. It was there PJ realized she wasn't sweetest youngest thing, as we didn't recognize anything from his newest album, just as all teeny boppers around us on stadium ground seemed oblivious to 'Your Song' and other old favorites, when he finally got around to them.

 

Week in Australia was half in Sydney, across big park from opera house, where we sat through all those hours of Valkurie. Were surprised that inside is much more stark and less sweepingly beautiful than outside. BI had lots of colorful characters and free spirits around the world and Allan, with whom we stayed in Mt. Macedon hill station lodge above Melbourne, fits that description to a tee S&P like ratings business, horse race bets and enthusiastic flamboyance. Other BI guys of earlier time had been associated with CIA in first NSA leak scandal via Asia Foundation in 1960's in San Francisco although last initials were for Student Association rather than Security Agency. But those BI-CIA guys were stringers in East Europe, doing exactly what we wanted, providing hard to get reliable business intelligence. From our era of BI, we can also count Obama as alum, although after a year in our NY financial unit, he summarized his move on to Chicago community organizing in his exit interview along the lines of 'having bigger fish to fry.' Most endearing of idyllic days at Allan's Cameron Lodge was watching three small boys roam grounds usually with toy collie. Oldest was Tristan, and that along with opera in NY before our Tristan's birth, tells story of his name.

1984 July Newport RI 1984 Oct. Doolittle Pond, CN, Katonah, NY 1984 Nov Newport Reunion 1984 BI, University, Met

During 1984 much of my PanAm travel shifted from international flights to build Business International consulting practice to domestic PanAm from San Francisco to Midwest for International Trading Company or to New York to tidy up BI internal operations in connection with potential sale. These couple a month long commutes on PanAm domestic network continued through 1985. Their regularity probably led to letter from PanAm after Australia trip to accept two round trip passes to new PanAm routes to Africa. PJ hadn’t been to Africa and I hadn’t been to West Africa, so we booked reservation to Dakar which friends assured us was lovely French coastal city in Senegal rather than further east where most go for fuzzy animals. By October flight time PJ was pregnant and much more interested in New York than Dakar, but Africa had to be final destination for passes. By time we arrived at JFK, we still hadn’t gotten Senegal visas, but figured we could get them next day in NY before flight that night. On stopping at Clipper Club, attendant looked at PJ, and asked whether she really wanted to go next night, so roundtrip SF-Dakar became SF-NY for couple weeks which is all PJ ever really wanted. Attendant said Dakar was full every night, and they could use our seats for paying fares.

 

PanAm commutes to NY continued until night before Tristan's three week early arrival Feb. 12. I was walking back from Met's Lohengrin to University Club thinking of exquisite Tristan and Isolde score a couple hours before PJ in San Francisco realized she was going into labor. It wasn't PanAm, but American that got me back home on noon flight next day, after I first heard at office that morning that PJ was at Kaiser. I recall mentioning to PJ idea of Tristan, but as he was born 20 minutes later, she doesn't recall. We had agreed on Anjuli, even though we had a he and didn't want anything like 'Boy Named Sue'. But we thought we still had several weeks to sort name out. In end we compromised with Thomas as middle name if he decided he didn't like being Tristan, but he never did.

 

Travel east to Tokyo, Philippines and Macao on PanAm took place while PJ and Tristan stayed at home battling heavy rains and leaky roof. But at eight weeks, Tristan was ready for test flight. Still remember parking him at entry of our home after wedding reception, as we ran around packing and then dashed to airport for red eye to NY. After few days work, we drove to DC for friends visit in Dogwood splendor of Spring, and then PanAm to Bermuda for week. From then on, I always found our very active Tristan a joy to travel with, although I'm not sure that was always PJ's recollection.

1985 April Palauan, Macao, HKG 1984 3 Tokyo Kamakura Blossoms 1985 May Tristan, Rod Clairfont Bermuda 1985 Bermuda Beach

Since largest BI office outside NY was Geneva, I needed to go there in June for operations work and to recruit controller to help in NY in fall. PJ and Tristan came along and PanAm took us Nice. We drove up Rhone valley and walked through Alpine valleys near where I skied at Val d’Isere for week in 1976. Tristan went along everywhere, even to dinners after his bedtime, in basket and little sleeping bag parked under dinner table. Same thing worked for a while at NY City Ballet.

1985 June Rockin in Alps 1985 June French Inn Breakfast Alps Tristan, PJ Rod, Tristan Chateau News Oyster Bay, NY

 

On NY return, PJ decided she wanted to drive into NY, as I returned rental car from Katonah home of friends who spent summers in Michigan. It was that hot, humid day in NY that PJ realized that her time to do only thing she ever envied me for, living in NY after college, had passed. I did get to take them to lunch with river breeze near UN, but otherwise, it was PJ coping with revolving doors and escalators with baby in balloon stroller, fearful even in Central Park afternoon of someone taking Tristan. Tristan and PJ did spend good bit of rest of summer with me in NY, but in Katonah rather than Manhattan.

1980+ Bob, Kay Campbell NY 1985 Summer PJ, Tristan Katonah Couch PJ, Tristan Katonah Floor

After summer, our Katonah friends returned and I stayed at Beekman Tower until UN opened, or at friend's Piano Factory penthouse. Most of rest of that fall we stayed at Southgate Tower next to Penn Hotel. Made me recall night I first arrived in NY in midst of destruction of old Penn Station and ended with front row center seat for Streisand in Funny Girl at full price of $7.80. PJ and Tristan spent much more time in San Francisco that fall, so I went to Met most nights alone after long workdays. When PJ and Tristan weren’t in town, I could stay at University Club.

 

I used to think that when you had some wonderful experience, you should never go back. PanAm dispelled me of that view many times even up to 2006, when we all went to India, and continued around the world, long after PanAm was gone, but all on PanAm frequent flier miles that had been passed on to United or Delta. On a non airline example of never going back, I remember after PJ and I met and grew to love opera together, I wished she could have seen Pavarotti and Caballe in Tosca, as I did year before we met. In 1985 same stars and opera opened the Met season. We all walked up to Met opening night to watch the glitterati enter and few performances later PJ and I returned to be swept away by those two glorious voices in that spectacular NY production. They never recorded Tosca together, but on night I saw it in San Francisco, I put couple tapes in cassette recorded, since performance was being broadcast on KDFC. It’s still probably my most treasured tape, now MP3. Later that season, I was alone in NY and astonished by a near 70 year old Falstaff, who was making his Met debut. I never witnessed a star who owned a role as Taddei did Falstaff, but thought I recognized his style and voice. He was Scarpia in my 1978 Tosca recording. Met may have missed him all those years he stayed mostly in Europe, but Adler in San Francisco didn’t.

1985, 67 Beekman Tower 1985 NY Piano Factory Gloria 1985 Fall Met Tosca Opening, Falstaff 1983+ Constitution Oak

During those fall 1985 PanAm trips to NY, we also got out of town, returning to Constitution Oak at Lake Waramug, in photos above and below, as PJ and I had been doing since start of BI days, and visiting friends in Katonah as well as sister Trish and family in Rhode Island, where Tristan was baptized year after we had first ever family reunion at Trish's home year before. I recall that reunion not only from Newport photo above, but also my mother’s amazement that we would drive to NY and back same day for matinee tickets PJ had gotten for Jeremy Irons, Glenn Close play.

1985 Fall Constitution Oak Lake Warmaug 1985 Fall NY Southgate Tower Penn 1985 NY BI Adieu

Last NY photo above at Southgate in December was also our Christmas Greeting in 1985. A few days later we left for Christmas with my parents and Mary Ann’s family in Dunedin with plans for parents to keep Tristan for couple weeks while we took last PanAm fling to Rio. Since South America was new to PJ, I wanted to continue on PanAm to Argentina and Chile, but I think days away from Tristan apprehension scotched that for PJ. Glow Worm seemed to be hit toy for many that Christmas and Tristan seemed fascinated with it. As for me, I will always prefer what I thought was Mills Brothers original, until learning tune was older than they.

1985 Christmas Dunedin Dad Tristan Tristan Glow Worm Tristan, PJ Tristan So Big Rob, PJ Tristan, Rod

Rio via PanAm was just as spectacular as I recalled it from 1977 trip when Rio entry was anything but PanAm: open air DC3 from Villavicencio to Leticia; Amazon river boat to Belem; buses down coast to Rio. Think at least one of Rio photos were from Urca place we stayed then. This time Macumba on Ipanema was still highlight, but long walk back to Rio Bay hotel wasn’t. Brazil bus travel around holidays is like India travel, continually thwarted by lots of other travels, but we tried for a few days before returning to Rio. By then PJ had seen all too many young mothers with babies in very fertile Brazil and was missing hers. Only time ever we were happy to return home few days early. And even then apprehension of Tristan response was unsettling. Mother indicated Tristan was still napping, but PJ would have none of it. On waking him, there were a few moments uncertainty, but as had Simon and Garfunkel pointed out years before ‘the mother and child reunion is only a moment away’ and was for PJ.

1985, 78 Rio Bay to Urca 1985, 78 Rio New Years Eve Macumba 1985, 78 Urca to Corcovado Rio

After BI, San Francisco became more and PanAm less a part of life, although I still got back to NY couple times a year, either to visit opera lover friend at Kings Point or stay in BI colleague coop near Met while for sale. Also got to PA consulting in Princeton, which looked more like Pompidou Center in Paris, probably due to same architect who showed infrastructure rather than encase it. Originally it was only PJ and I who were relying on PanAm for May 1989 Met Ring, but when mother didn’t realize she was to come to SF to take care of boys, they came too, spending first few days in Rhode Island with Trish and next week with us in flat couple blocks from Met. It was there where Tristan was introduced to his namesake composer through dragon act of Siegfried. He liked it so much that when babysitter had left and PJ couldn’t leave Kevin, he returned with me for last act of Siegfried. Couple nights later he was my date for full Gotterdammerung, after a matinee with PJ for Pavarotti and Kathleen Battle in Elixir of Love. Tristan didn’t know Pavarotti, but knew Battle in Barber of Seville video and wanted to see her.

1986+ Kings Point NY Henry Kozlowski 1983, 9 Princeton University 1989 PA Princeton US 1989 NY Met Ring Cycle

At end of Discovery summer session in 1987, we returned on PanAm to London with Tristan, saw friend Julian in Norfolk cottage and traveled for couple weeks with Tristan playing happily on back floor of car while we watched England glide by, just as in our ‘Two for the Road’ days. Stayed at what was once England’s largest farm, east of Lincoln, as seen in photos below. After all hours PJ had spent with Brideshead Revisited, we also drove up to York and Castle Howard.

1987 Whitcall UK Farm 1987 Lincoln UK 1987 Lincoln UK 1987 Whitcall Farmhouse 1987 Castle Howard York UK

In 1990 we had chance to introduce world of PanAm to not next but prior generation, when we finally got my parents to return to meet Dad’s Norwegian clan. We made sure our PanAm s ummer trip to Martha’s Vineyard was via of JFK so we could surprise them at meeting in Clipper Club as they waited for overseas flight. In 1991 we figured we would do same type of PanAm trip we had taken in to England, but this time to France. PanAm performed perfectly again in getting us to Nice. It was only a few days later when we left in car from friends' Villefranche home that traveling with two little boys in back seat wasn’t same as just Tristan a few years before through England. PJ ended up spending much of our long driving days in backseat to break up what was something other than their same delight and wonder we have always had at just looking out the window and watching a new world pass by. Next time we returned to Europe in 1993 was on Intervac house exchange, figuring a home base was better than 10 hours a day in a car and anticipation of what great overnight spot might lie at day’s end. But by then PanAm was gone and couldn’t have helped as they always had in past.

1990 Katonah Bob Campbell 1990 JFK CC Parents to Norway 1991 Briancion France 1991 Aitkin MN 1991 Aitkin MN

However, PanAm on that memorable last France trip together, helped confirm our future travel home base approach by for second time delivering us home to San Francisco via a stop in Minnesota on their domestic network. After our return from Nice, we waited in Clipper Club for flight on to Minnesota. It seems that Tristan may have been a bit too conversant with others about his little brother's chicken pox, and we were grounded until medical OK, even though contagion period is mostly before pox break out and by now they were gone from Kevin. We called Katonah friends and they said come on up. Last photo of Katonah friends in NY was with boys and Bob on tractor above. I took PJ and Tristan back to JFK for next day PanAm flight to Minneapolis, while Kevin and I waited through weekend in Katonah to get medical OK for him to fly on Monday. Kevin spent most of time learning to talk with Beaker the parrot and after Monday OK, we were on PanAm to join PJ and Tristan at summer camp her family bought that was 15 miles East of Aitkin where my parents still spent every summer at Dad's sister's home 15 miles west of town.

 

It was there that confirmed value of home base for little boys, rather than back seat for our trips from then on, as we should have learned on first time allowed us to stop in Minnesota on way home couple years before. It was my Dad who helped Tristan catch his first fish, not me in photo above. My recollection was being relieved of need to accompany Dad on before dawn Minnesota fishing, through all the years those fishing trips were only summer vacations we knew. But that last trip to Minnesota with PanAm was also last time any of us saw my Dad.

 

In late 1991, I had last flights on PanAm. On return from NY, I stopped into Clipper Club, mainly to say goodbye to Walter, Jean and others. I learned that most flights had been going out with mostly near full loads, but was shaken on hearing on most on miles rather than fares. On flight home I thought of Juan Trippe leaving PanAm just a couple years after my first PanAm flight in 1966. With that retirement, he had not only led and dominated international air travel for forty years as head of Pan Am, pioneering routes through Latin America, bridging the Pacific and Atlantic, and introducing world to jet travel with both Boeing 707 and 747.

 

Then I thought of a 1974 aviation documentary story: 'Lindbergh wanted to tell his old friend Juan Trippe that the end was near. Their paths had been intertwined for over forty years. They had traveled the world together with Lindbergh serving as Trippe's advisor, each of their journeys driven by shared belief that aviation would benefit mankind. Now it was time to say goodbye. They talked for two hours. Trippe just sat in his chair with tears pouring down his face.' Me too, for most of hours on last PanAm flight home. Few days later all flight ceased and PanAm was gone.

 

Even though these views are a personal salute to PanAm as we knew it and grew to admire it in all it's years before we ever flew, we also realize that we have benefitted greatly from others such as: TWA through 1965 first Europe charter and another in 1973; TWA in BI days through frequent flier trips first class to Boston in 1982, Rome in 1983, and Milan in 1984; American with Thanksgiving passes on new Europe routes to Gatwick in 1982 and Frankfurt in 1983, both of which got us to France; American two successive May frequent flyer trips to Crane Bay in Barbados; and United with frequent flier trips around world for family 2006 as well as France and Quebec this year. And best of all Delta for taking all of those unused PanAm miles into their program and generously proving that Clipper Club lifetime purchase question was irrelevant. It wasn't either our lifetime or PanAm's. I think of that every time I walk into a Delta Sky Club, and also think back to all the previous visits to Clipper Clubs, which together have made flying today more like suits and special of past than sweats and stress of today.

 

In last few years, I've read lots about our court system judging corporations to be like individuals under law. I think that's totally bunk. I also recall PJ always talking of end of PanAm being more like 'a death in the family.' As for me, I agree with PJ. Does that mean I am wrong about our Court decisions? What do you think?